Having the proper tools as an electrician is crucial for job success.
That’s why we compiled this extensive master list of electrician tools.
We have a list for apprentice electrician tools, and a list for journeyman to master electrician tools.
I think you’ll find my descriptions of why I use each tool to be really helpful.
How Much Should an Apprentice Electrician Pay for Tools?
You don’t need to run out and buy all the tools today. But, as you grow in experience and skill, and your work becomes more diverse, your tool needs will grow as well.
The required tools of an apprentice electrician are available in a wide range of prices. You can spend anywhere from $10 to $60 on a decent pair of pliers, for example.
I have two competing thoughts on this. On the one hand, I believe you get what you pay for. Buy a cheesy tool-get cheesy results.
On the other side is this: tools sometimes come to a violent end.
One chop through an energized wire – and it WILL happen – pretty much destroys a nice pair of lineman’s pliers regardless of how much you spent on it.
There is also what I call, “Hey, where’s my needle nose?” factor. In other words, electricians lose tools.
I believe, for every tool in my electrician’s tool pouch today, there are 2-3 more scattered in attics and crawl spaces around southeastern Michigan. Just a fact of life – hand tools tend to get lost.
So with all that said, I usually buy tools in the mid-price range.
Your tools need a home. Tool belts are a great way to stay organized and have what you need at hand.
Another great place to keep your tools is in the best tool bags for electricians. We reviewed the to on the market today to give you a step up in your decision making.
Tools for an Electrician Apprentice
What exactly does an electrician apprentice need when it comes to tools? Well, grab a cup of coffee and sit down. This is going to get interesting.
Hand tools, power tools, and meters are all on the list of tools that an electrician apprentice needs to have. I’ve conveniently divvied them all up by category.
And, I give you my personal tips as well.
The tools of an electrician apprentice don;t fall into a neat list. There may be variance from one employer to the next as to what you need. Still, this list is a good start for an apprentice.
No matter where you are in your journey as an electrician, keep reading for helpful tips about electricians and their tools.
Apprentice Electrician Tools
Channel Lock Pliers
I call these channel lock pliers, but they’re also known as pump pliers. These adjustable pliers really come in handy. There seems to be no end to the nuts, bolts, clips, or springs that you’ll need to grab hold of or loosen. Here’s a quick example: A GFI style outlet or switch can be hard to install properly. Rectangles tend to tip and twist in the box – not to mention they’ll appear awful once the wall plate is on. I just open my pump pliers to the right setting so that I can grab the outlet by it’s sides. Now I have all the leverage I need to straighten it out.
Some guys call these side cutters- others use the term Linesman’s Pliers. They’re great for cutting through Romex wire and single conductor cable up to about 4 gauge. The flat jaws are handy for grabbing things that need to be grabbed. One example is steel fish tape – but for the most part this is a cutting tool.
While the Lineman’s are good for cutting and pulling – diagonals are for cutting only. Because the style is more of a snip than a side-cutter, you won’t get the same leverage and therefore it’s not as effective with larger sized wires. So, why bother? The advantage here is the ability to reach into tight places like outlet boxes or crowded panels. This tool is a bit more surgical and I use it every bit as much as the Lineman’s Pliers.
Long Nose Pliers
This long-nose pliers is mostly for grabbing and pinching. But, they have a cutting blade too, which is nice when you need to snip something and don’t feel like grabbing another tool. This is #3 in what I would call the “Pliers Trifecta”. Gotta have ’em all!
As you get proficient, it becomes like an extension of your hand. It can do things your fat, little fingers can’t manage – which is saying something when you consider the engineering marvel that is our hands.
This thing is great for twisting wire around terminals, pinching, grabbing, yanking – you name it. It’s also handy for retrieving little things from the bottom of your tool pouch where your hand won’t fitis
Here’s a stripper your wife will approve of. It quickly and neatly cleans the insulation from copper wire – stranded or solid. Most of the time you’ll be dealing with wire in the range of 14 gauge up to 10 gauge. They do make strippers for lager sizes – 8 gauge and 6 gauge, bit it really isn’t necessary to have. You can deal with bigger cable using a razor knife.
This item has a permanent place in my tool pouch. Crimping is a daily reality, be it brass grounding sleeves or insulated terminal connectors. I recommend this open jaw style over the crimpers which are in the nadle. This has better leverage and it uses a more natural and ergonomic action.
This tool has but one purpose: exposing the wires in armored cable. Usually called MC (Metallic Cable) or BX cable. It’s multi-wire cable surrounded by an aluminum or steel flexible shield. You’ll mostly see it used in commercial and industrial locations.
The Roto-Split makes a quick and clean job of stripping that outer sheath off when terminating the cable. Some electricians prefer using their diagonal cutter for this task – and that works fine in a pinch. But, if I need to strip a lot of cable, I find that this tool is much faster and makes a cleaner cut.
You can’t see electricity so how do you know what it’s doing? The volt meter is to an electrician what a stethoscope is to a doctor. When you learn to use it, you can measure voltage, current, frequency, and continuity. It’s indispensable for testing, diagnostics and troubleshooting. The absolute best training in the electrical contracting field is troubleshooting. Nothing will teach you how things work like figuring out why they’re not working.
You’ll find this digital meter to be indispensable for testing, proving, and troubleshooting. The T5 electrical tester lets you check voltage, continuity and current with one compact tool. All you have to do is select volts, ohms, or current, and the tester does the rest. I love the clamp feature which makes it even faster to check current.
In the field, this is usually called a proximity tester or “chirp tester”. Hold it next to an energized wire and it will glow red or emit an audible tone – or both. It’s simply a quick check to see if a circuit or device is energized. This is not meant to replace a volt meter. I use this when I’m troubleshooting a circuit. It places a tone on the wire which allows me to detect it on the other end.
In the same vein as the “Chirp Tester” (aka Voltage Tester), this is specifically designed to check receptacle outlets. Plug it in and the lights (or lack thereof), will tell you if the plug is working.
You might be wondering, “Why don’t I just plug in a lamp or vacuum?” You could do that, but this tool will fit right in your pocket, whereas a floor lamp is a bit more cumbersome. Additionally, if there is a problem, this will indicate what the trouble is: loss of ground, loss of neutral, etc.
A nice feature is the little black button, which is a GFCI tester. When plugged in, pressing that button will trip a properly functioning GFCI device.
Also known as a de-burring tool, this little guy is part of the process in cutting conduit. This process protects the wires from being damaged as they’re pulled through the conduit. Insert into the freshly cut end and twist to clean off the sharp edges left behind. Works on 1/2″ thin wall conduit.
Ok. Screwdrivers. You probably don’t need me to tell you what these are for. Once nice feature here is that the insulated shaft keeps you from making sparks and arcs when working in an energized panel.
You will want a straight blade and a phillips. Don’t go crazy and buy every size out there. But, I do recommend the following:
- Straight blade and phillips – medium-sized for general use.
- Straight blade – small-sized for cover plates and small set screws.
- Straight blade – large-sized. Good for….well….large stuff.
Why do I need 7 different screw drivers? Well, for one thing, you’ll lose three of them the first month. Seriously, more of my hand tools are now in peoples attics than my truck. Fact is, you’ll be glad to have a variety of sizes as you get more and more involved.
I also like the insulated grip which allows me to work on energized equipment when necessary. The indicator on the tip allows me to see the type while still in my tool pouch.
Square Recess-Tip Screwdriver
The square drive bit is for a very specific screw head – clearly. The screw head can be found on many electrical panels and devices. I keep it in reach right next to my phillips screwdriver. You’ll find you can apply much more torque on a square drive without it slipping.
Stubby screwdrivers seem a bit silly – until you need one! Every now and then you’ll need to remove some irritating screw located in a tight spot; like pulling out the insides of a recessed light fixture (don’t worry, you will!).
The six in one feature combines 2 sizes of both phillips and standard blades, as well as 1/4″ and 5/16″ nut drivers.
For making quick, small cuts in drywall. I often use this when installing electrical boxes in a finished wall or recessed lights in ceilings. Also indispensable for finding boxes and/or wires buried by dry-wallers who just don’t care.
A sharp utility knife is an absolute must. It’s very difficult to get through a day without a good razor. I prefer this snap off style because they get dull pretty fast. It’s much quicker to break off the used tip and keep going than to take the knife apart and install a new blade each time. You’ll use this for everything from stripping large gauge wire to cutting drywall and opening boxes.
No, this isn’t for leveling a torpedo. Making sure things look good is very important. Keep those conduits straight, and light fixtures plumb with this hand held level which fits nicely in your tool pouch.
The magnetic side makes this a hands-free tool that won’t get dropped – at least not as often.
I use my hammer every day. There are plenty of things to secure and plenty more to tear apart. You don’t need an expensive framing hammer. I’m happy with a simple 16-inch one; especially when I have to staple Romex in tight places. It also makes a nice measuring stick when putting up outlet boxes around a house. Just stand the hammer up on the floor and set the box on top of it. Hold and nail in place.
You’re going to measure a lot of stuff! Locating light fixtures, mounting boxes, running conduit, are just a few things that require a decent tape measure. I’m not real fussy about this tool with a few exceptions. First, get one with a heavy duty blade. You want to be able to extend it out as far as possible without it collapsing. That really helps when you’re trying to find the center of a ceiling. Another feature I like is a magnetic tip. This allows me to butt the end up to something metallic and have it hang on.
At one time having a cordless drill on your truck was a luxury. Today I would call it an absolute must.
You’ll use this thing every day – sometimes all day. Most common use is installing or removing devices such as outlets and switches. Hint: make sure you have an extra battery so one can be charging while the other is in use.
The first time I used one of these bad boys I thought; where have you been all my life? If you , like me, have every schlepped through an attic or crawl space with tools, material and a mini flashlight in your mouth then you know how awesome it is to have a hands free source of light. Get one of these!
Here’s a little gadget I’ve come to really appreciate. The inside of this tray is magnetic. I can fill it up with screws and have no fear of them spilling out. The base is also magnetic so I can park the whole thing in a convenient spot like on a metal stud, I-beam, or panel cover.
Knee pads? Yeah, I know, they’re for old guys. But listen, if you want to still be doing this when you’re an old guy, you really need to take care of those knees.
Unless you’re wearing a suit of armor, you are not impervious to cuts. A good pair of cut resistant gloves will protect you from most of those nasty nicks and slashes you get from razor knifes, jagged sheet metal edges, broken lamps, etc.
I have, perhaps, the world’s worst penmanship. Therefore, I use my labeler all the time. It’s great for panels or identifying equipment. You will leave behind a professional look every time.
Some tools you will use everyday, other’s weekly, and some monthly or only occasionally.
Now, let’s move to the next list. A typical Journeyman Electrician will add additional tools to his stash.
Be aware that there is not a clear line between these two lists. Some tools can go on either list. These lists are a general guideline.
Journeyman to Master Electrician Tools
Shutting off a particular circuit breaker will need to happen many times. Rarely are panels labeled correctly, if at all. So what now? You could start by shutting them off one by one, but if you’re working in a place of business, they may not appreciate having their server shut down. Believe me, they don’t!
Another trick is to short out the circuit, but that really isn’t a great idea.
Enter the circuit breaker finder. This thing puts a signal on the circuit in question and allows you to identify it in the panel with a receiver. Clever little gadget!
Unless you have forearms like Popeye, you’ll want a set of these, which are particularly good for SE cable #8-#4. You can hack away on it with your linesman pliers, or use this cutter and with one quick snip, it’s done.
This tool has but one purpose; bending conduit! If you work in the trade for any length of time, you’ll need to install electrical conduit. EMT (electrical metallic tubing) is the most common grade of pipe used. It comes in 10′ lengths, and unless you’re extremely lucky, you will eventually need to bend it. This tool is designed for the 1/2″ trade size, which is the most common. The next larger size is 3/4″, and it requires a larger bender.
You can’t do without one of these. When you need to cut larger sized single conductor wire or SE cable, this thing goes right through it.
You need to invest a bit on this one. There are cheaper versions, but I don’t recommend that route. This tool has a number of moving parts and you don’t want to have it failing in the field.
Every now and then you need to cut apart at around the pipe. or in some tight space where you can’t get a saw in there. You just set the cutting wheel where you want the cut, and tighten as you spin it around the pipe. Eventually it scores all the way around and you can snap it apart.
This tool has but one purpose. Make that two! It enables you to easily open and close links on light fixture chains. Fixtures usually come with way more chain than you’ll ever need. This chain pliers allows you to open and close links without damaging the finish. It’s much quicker than using whatever pliers happens to be in your tool pouch.
This is another one of those tools you’ll need every now and then. Sometimes you need to get a screw into something that is too tiny for you’re fingers and the miserable flat head screw won’t stay on a screwdriver long enough to get it started. A holding screwdriver physically grabs the screw allowing you to get those first few threads engaged.
You’ll be all set with the most common sizes in this 7-piece set. The magnetic tip prevents the nuts from hitting the floor and running away. Don’t want to spring for the whole set? At the very least you’ll want to carry a 1/4″ and a 5/16″. These are the most used nut sizes you’ll encounter out there.
This seems like something a mechanic would carry, but some days that’s what you are. Taking things apart to get to what you need to fix happens quite a bit.
Also called Slug Busters, this is an invaluable tool for cutting trade-sized holes in panels or other equipment. They come with cutting dies for all the common hole sizes you’ll need. Typically 1/2″ through 2″. This creates a perfect, clean hole ready for conduit. When you’re ready to upgrade – consider the hydraulic model. Check hydraulic price on Amazon.
Sometimes you just need to make a hole. From getting cables through walls to punching into homes from the outside, or installing recessed lights in existing ceilings – hole saws are a must for every electrician’s truck.
These are specific to electrician trade sizes, such as 1/2″, 3/4″ and so on. It’s the same concept as the slug buster from above but a different process. Mainly they’re quite a bit less expensive to buy.
The field name is “Thru Tap”. Threaded holes often become stripped out from repeated wear and tear. This ool provies a quick way to re-tap those problems. It ranges from a 6/32-1/4-20 thread. This is one of those $20 items that will kick around in your toolbox for months making you wonder why you ever bought it. Until that one time it’s needed and you’re glad it’s there.
The non-conductive material of this fish tape allows me to push into an energized panel without worry – which is why I prefer fiberglass or nylon over steel. Also, there’s no issues with rust or corrosion that steel tapes have. One hundred feet is almost always plenty, but you can get a 200-footer if you like.
Sounds like the worst lunch ever, right? These guys are indispensable when getting cables down walls or through attics. They thread together to make one long rod, or can be used individually. The little hook attachment will save your bacon more than once – until you lose it. (Don’t lose it!)
And that glow-in-the-dark thing? Very handy in attics.
Let’s face it – we’re electricians, not auto mechanics. We won’t be using wrenches and sockets constantly, so there’s no need to spend top dollar on this one. That said, you definitely need a set of these on your truck. I like that there’s a 1/4″ adapter on this one for the smaller sizes. Word to the wise: take care of the case. Plastic hinges will only take so much wear and tear until they break.
From ground rod lugs to hard to reach bolts – a ratcheting box end wrench can really make the difference. I keep a set of these with me at all times. This is great in tight spaces where a conventional socket won’t fit. As an added bonus: no more sockets falling off and out of reach (just don’t drop the wrench!).
Some guys say they use this for cuttiing conduit. I prefer a band saw or chop saw for all that. But a decent reciprocating saw is a must on every electrician’s truck. Cutting studs, removing old steel boxes from walls, large drywall cuts, uni=strut and even the occasional recessed box ina log house wall, keeps me using mine constantly.,
This tool is a significant investment, but an invaluable piece of equipment to own, especially if you’ll be doing any new construction electrical work. This is the guy to have when you need to drill out more than a few studs.
The primary task of my impact drill is driving the cutting die on my hole punch tool (the non-hydraulic one). Because this tool has but one or two uses for me, it doesn’t come out of it’s drawer every day. But when needed, it’s second to none and gets the job done in a fraction of the time. Without it, I would have to use a ratchet and socket. It’s also very useful for driving lag bolts into wood.
Another very useful cutting tool is this step drill. No one actually calls it that – we call it the “Christmas Tree” bit. This is ideal for cutting specific sized holes into metal to run wire and cable, or to terminate conduits. The most common uses are adding a 1/2″ or 3/4″ hole to a panel or cutting an opening in the top plate of a metal studded wall. Each level or “step” on the bit is a larger size than the last. Simply continue drilling through until the desired opening size is reached.